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Out And About
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Château de Javarzay (Castle Javarzay) – Chef Boutonne
When you walk in the country Mellois, discover near Chef-Boutonne Castle Javarzay . It was rebuilt in 1514 by the Rochechouart on the remains of an ancient castle which then twelve towers along its wall . There remains now only two. Javarzay is one of the best witnesses of the Renaissance architecture in the Deux-Sèvres: beautiful entrance pavilion flanked by four turrets corbelled conical roofs covered with slate all there! property of the municipality since 1982, the castle houses the Javarzay Museum of the cap , are exposed to more than 400 hats and caps. The castle also has a beautiful fishing lake around it.
LA ROCHELLE
The historic La Rochelle is one of France’s loveliest coastal towns, its historic port is beautifully preserved.
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From the 14th to the 16th century it was one of France's great maritime cities, its wealth based on trade with the New World. It has long been a French favourite with luminaries including Voltaire and Rabelais and Jean-Paul Sartre who went to school here associated with the town. Today, the French flock here for its tourist attractions, great atmosphere and its proximity to the golden sands of the Atlantic beaches and beautiful off-shore islands. The town’s daily market takes over the streets around Place du Marché. For an eye-boggling array of fresh seafood, head to the seafood market at Rue Marche. For the best ice-cream, then head straight for Ernest le Glacier, a family business renowned for their fantastic ice-creams in fabulous flavours.
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On site activities
> Fishing Lake > Swimming Pool > Tennis Court > Table Tennis > Football > Basket Ball > Bowls > Trampoline > BBQ > Picnic
Out & About
> Golf > Walking > Cycling > Horse riding > Trekking > Beaches
Entertainment
> Futurescope > Water Parks > Festivals
Tourism
> Chef Boutonne > La Rochelle > Royan > Angouleme > Poitiers > Cognac
Information
> Weather > Testimonials
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ROYAN
Royan on the Charente-Maritime coast can claim to be one of the best Atlantic beach and holiday resorts in France. It has a warm and sunny climate, tourist attractions, a lovely natural location and best of all some wonderful sandy beaches.
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Once a chic seaside resort of beautiful Belle Époque architecture, it was flattened in January 1945 by Allied bombing.
This attack appears to have been needless - according to one historian the Germans had already left the town – and caused huge damage.The town was rebuilt in modernist style in the 1950s today it is an attractive mix of the old and new, the colourful old villas nestling behind the main part of town.
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It also has a fine port to wander around, lots of natural areas rich with wildlife to explore and for those who like to shop there’s plenty to do, too, from Royan’s renowned market to some upmarket stores.
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Church of Notre-Dame: you’ll probably either love or hate Royan’s main church.
Unlike the Romanesque style of the region, this church is most definitely modernist, and rather like the Tardis seems much bigger (and some would say nicer) inside.
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Built of concrete between 1952 and1956 and replacing the original church that was destroyed during the Allied bombing, the nave is as high as Notre-Dame in Paris. Inside, the stained glass windows tell the story of Royan.
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Out on the water: Take a boat ride out to Le Phare de Cordouan, one of France’s oldest lighthouses – and one that still has a live-in lighthouse-keeper. Ten kilometres off the coast and 67-metre high, inside it boasts a black and white marble floor. For a breath-taking view, you can climb the 300 or so steps to the top. Another notable lighthouse is the one at La Courbe. For cruise details, see the tourist office.
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ANGOULEME Walk around the town and you can trace its history, it dates back to the first century but became politically and historically important during the late Middle Ages. It was during this time that the city walls, called Les Ramparts were first built, as well as St Pierre Cathedral whose spire can be seen from miles around.
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It has seen its fair share of battles, being at the heart of the struggle for power between the French and English during the 14th century and then during the French Wars of Religion two hundred years later.
During the 18th and 19th centuries the many papermaking mills (now all but disappeared) brought the town great wealth. Today, reminders of these past days can be found in the older medieval style buildings and grander mansion with beautiful facades and thick wooden doors.
Also look out for something more modern – the 20 or so walls decorated with cartoon-style murals by a variety of artists and the 1000 or so street name plaques in the form of a speech bubbles.
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Angoulême is world-renowned amongst creators and fans of this creative medium, and hosts the Comic Strip festival every January. A good place to start your exploration of the old part of the town is Les Halles, the covered market that’s an excellent example of 19th century metal work, with ornate scroll work curling around the roof and walls.
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Inside are stalls selling fresh produce from cheeses to meat, seafood and fresh fruit and vegetables. If you want to see the market at its bustling best, make sure you go in the morning.
(Near the market is the tourist office where you can pick up a leaflet, in English, with a map of the old town including explanations of local torist attractions, what to see and where to find it.)
More shops and cafés can be found in and around Rue des Postes that leads to Place F Louvel, just past the town hall. Make sure you buy some brightly coloured macaroons or canellés (small pastries with a custard centre), both local specialities.
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Muse de la bande dessine: Devoted to the art of the comic strip - the annual festival on the subject is held every January in Angoulême - and its impact on the world, both culturally and politically, this is arguably Angoulême’s most famous museum. The musuem collection contains 8,000 original drawings and over 110,000 magazines, and as well as information on France’s comic heroes, including Tin Tin and Asterix, there are exhibitions of comics from around the world including the Marvel Comics and Japanese manga.
Musée D’Angoulême: After years of planning, the museum recently underwent a €6.8 million facelift with the addition of a new wing, at the same time changing its name from Musée des Beaux-Arts to the grander Museum of Angoulême. Over three floors plus the crypt, it covers archaeology, artefacts from the Maghreb, Africa and Oceania, French paintings and sculpture from the 16th to 20th centuries plus the complete reconstruction of a 19th century salon, down to the carved panelling and parquet floor. 1 rue Friedland, Square Girard II, côté jardin; tel 05 45 95 79 88;
Le Nil Paper Museum: Joseph-Bardou manufactured the famous ‘Le Nil’ cigarette papers (hence its name), and this museum which shows the history of the paper history both locally (Rizla had a factory here) and around the world is housed in his former paper mill. 134, rue de Bordeaux; tel 05 45 92 73 43
Musee de la Resistance et de la Deportation: the story of the French resistance during WWII both locally and nationally, using real life stories, documents and maps. 34, rue de Genève; tel 05 45 38 76 87;
Vintage cars: during the third weekend of September, the old town is given over to vintage cars from all over the world who compete in Circuit des Remparts, fondly known as ‘Monaco without the sea’. A series of races is held over three days within the town and is great fun with loads of atmosphere. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the event – expect plenty of revving!
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POITIERS When it comes to historic French towns, Poitiers is dripping with memories of hard fought battles and the pomp and ceremony of French royalty. French queen, Eleanor of Aquitaine, annulled her marriage to Louis VII to marry King Henry II of England, and they established their court here. Joan of Arc tried to claim the city as did Richard the Lion Heart, and in the Hundred Years War, the Battle of Poitiers is ranked with Agincourt as one of England’s great victories against France.
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Today Poitiers is rather less turbulent but with a charm and tourist attractions that makes it one of the loveliest towns in the Poitou-Charentes. Its population is just 85,000 but with around one quarter of them university students – Poitiers University dates back to 1431 and counts French philosopher René Descartes and English painter Francis Bacon amongst its former students – it is always lively.
Poitiers is a town to stroll around at leisure. From tree-lined Place Mar Leclerc that is filled with cafés in the summer (at Christmas it becomes an ice-skating ring) meander through cobbled, pedestrianised streets flanked by a mix of centuries-old architecture and half-timbered houses, many of which have been transformed into lovely little boutique shops.
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At Place Charles-de-Gaulle, there are more cafes and restaurants as well as the daily covered market which is on every day, plus a bric-a-brac one on Friday and Saturday mornings. The place is also the home of the Notre-Dame-la-Grande church, one of the town’s star attractions.
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Palais de Justice: It may have a 19th century façade but go inside, past the modern law courts, to see the Romanesque great hall where the Dukes of Aquitaine, including Richard the Lionheart, strutted their stuff. Joan of Arc was here too – questioned by the local bishops before they gave her their blessing. Take the stairs for a superb view of the town.
Place Alphonse Lepetit Cathédrale St-Pierre: Walk down the hill to the 12th century cathedral whose main claim to fame is that it has one of the oldest stained glass windows in France. Built over the ruins of a Roman basilica, construction began in 1162 under the direction of Henry II of England and his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine although it was finally completed much later in a Gothic style. Make sure you see the east window which is said to have been donated by Henry and Eleanor themselves.
Place de la Cathedrale Baptistère St-Jean: Dating back to the 4th century it is thought to be the oldest Christian building in France, built so that baptisms no longer had to be done in the river Clain. It was added to over the centuries and then abandoned in 1791 during the revolution. Confiscated from the church it was sold to a private citizen who used it as a warehouse. Saved from demolition by the public, it was repurchased by the church in the 19th century and excavated and restored in the middle of the 20th. Of particular interest are the octagonal tank and sixth century frescoes.
Musée Saint-Croix: If you’ve had enough of sacred buildings (let’s face it, they can get a bit overwhelming after a while) next door to the Baptistere is this fine museum. As well as archeological exhibits, it has paintings by Alfred Sisley, Eugène Boudin and Piet Mondrian as well as works by Rodin and Camille Claudel. 3 bis rue Jean Jaures.
Parc de Blossac: Take a walk along tree-lined paths in this lovely park that was originally created in the 18th century by the Count of Blossac on what was a Roman settlement. Beautifully landscaped in classic French style it also includes an English style rose garden as well as a grotto, ornamental lake and pavilion, and a small zoo with monkeys, deer and birds. From the park are lovely views of the Clain valley. Rue L. Thézard. Open from April 15 - October 15: 7am - 10.30pm (English garden closes at 8pm); from October 15 - April 15: 6.45am - 9.30pm (English garden closes at dusk).
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COGNAC
As you approach the town of Cognac in the Charente, the scenery changes from fields of grazing cattle to neat rows of vines, stretching as far as the eye can see. The town is famous all over the world thanks to cognac, the grape-based spirit that has been made here for the past 300 years - French writer Victor Hugo called it the ‘liquor of the gods’.
Cognac is a town full of history. France’s first king, François 1 was born here in 1494. A contemporary of King Henry VIII of England he is considered France’s first Renaissance king. He gave the town the right to trade salt using the river, so creating the foundations of its commercial success that was further enhanced when it went into cognac production.
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The spirit was first made as an alternative to wine as a preventive drink against scurvy – wine was difficult to transport and took up a lot of space. Double-distilled and turned into brandy (cognac) it was more compact and more stable so travelled well but also tasted better after being aged in oak casks. Today the town of Cognac continues to revolve around the spirit, its fortunes rising and falling according to the popularity of the drink.
What never changes is the old town, where the narrow streets are a mix of narrow medieval timber framed houses that once housed the workers and the grander mansions of the wealthy merchants. Look out for the salamander that adorns many of the homes and was the insignia of King François 1.
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Down by the river are the blackened chais (warehouses) that still store barrels of cognac, their discoloured state caused by the alcohol evaporating into the surrounding air. The locals call this ‘the angels taking their share’ – sadly, the truth is less romantic as the culprit is a tiny fungus that thrives in the alcohol-laden atmosphere.
A Cognac tour: one of most popular tourist attractions is a tour of one – or more! – of the many cognac producers to learn the history of cognac, how it is made plus enjoy a tasting or two. Most of the big names offer a tour – more information. It’s also worth asking the tourist office about tours of the surrounding vineyards and smaller producers where you can also buy direct.
Château de Cognac: the birthplace of François 1 is now called Château de Cognac. During its illustrious history it hosted the marriage of Richard the Lion Heart’s son to Aurélie de Cognac in 1190. During the French Revolution it was sold as national property and bought in 1795 by cognac producer Baron Otard. Today it is the headquarters of Otard cognac. A tour includes some of the rooms of the château.
Take a cruise on a gaberre: the traditional flat-bottomed oak boat that once used to transport cognac, salt and other produce, today transports visitors along the Charente – a great way to see the town from the river. Tickets are available at the tourist office.
Cognathèque: a permanent exhibition devoted to cognac - see and buy 450 different cognacs as well as 50 types of pineau, the delicious aperitif of the Charente. 8 place Jean-Monnet; tel 05 45 82 43 31;
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FESTIVALS
Summer festivals in the Charente & Charente-Maritime.
Many towns and villages all over the region get out their festive finery during the summer. These are some of the biggest events - but it's worth checking with your local tourist office as to what smaller events are happening in your local area.
CHARENTE FESTIVALS (Dates are subject to change)
Musiques Métisses Angoulême, June 10-12 2011 World music comes to Angoulême in the Charente with music from Africa, Latin America and elsewhere. This year's headline performers include reggae singer Tiken Jah Fakoly, zouk band Kassav, Nigerian musician Seun Kuti, American funk and soul jazz saxophonist Maceo Parker and singer and guitarist Boubacar Traoré as well as new and upcoming artsist. In the festival village are workshops, puppet shows and exhibitions. www.musiques-metisses.com
Les Sarabandes Douzat, June 11 & June 24-26 This year the festival kicks off at Manoir du Bois in the Charente at Grave St Amant on June 11. Then there are performances at Douzat in the Charente on June 24, 25 and 26. On each of these days, the participating villages will be taken over by music and comedy. www.lapalene.fr
12è Rencontres d’été La Maison du Comédien de Maria Casarès, Alloue, July 1-3 When actress Maria Casarès died she bequeathed the lovely house to the village and today it is the home of cultural performances including this summer festival which includes choral concerts, recitals and theatre. http://lamaisonducomedien.fr
Nuits Romanes Poitou-Charentes, 2 July – 27 August Throughout the summer, the Romanesque churches, abbeys and châteaux of the Poitou-Charentes become atmospheric venues for a series of cultural events including instrumental and choral concerts, dance, theatre and even circus acts.This year’s opening performance is at Saint-Hilaire church in Melle in the Deux-Sèvres. It begins at 9pm and stars the Orchestra Ars Nova along with pupils from the National Circus School at Châtellerault. For more information: http://nuitsromanes.poitou-charentes.fr
Medieval festival, Dignac Dignac, July 3 If you fancying charging back to medieval times, then this is the festival for you. Head back in time with musicians on medieval instruments, jousting tournaments, games, arts and crafts, medieval battle camps plus winged horses, unicorns, monsters, fairies and elves! www.fete-medievale.cad-dignac.info
La Fête de Cognac Cognac, July 28-30 Organised by local Cognac producers, this festival down at the old quay celebrates the famous drink of the region as well as the aperitif of pineau. Down it straight or specially made cocktails and shooters and tuck into local delicacies. Evening tickets cost €5. A pass for all the festival costs €15. www.lafeteducognac.fr
Festival Cognac Blues Passion Cognac, July 5 - 9 A huge festival not just in the region but in France, it attracts acts from all over the world, filling the streets and parks with music. Many of the acts are free so all you have to do is find a comfy spot on the grass, lie back and enjoy! This year’s headline acts include Texaz, Jamie Cullum and Morcheeba. www.bluespassions.com
Festival de Confolens Confolens, August 9-15 An annual festival that sees folk dancers from all over the world converge on this picturesque town for a series of performances in a theatre and in the street. This year’s festival celebrates the music and culture of Mexico. On the nights of July 11 & 13, all the groups perform in the streets of the town. www.festivaldeconfolens.com
CHARENTE-MARITIME FESTIVALS (DATES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE)
Fete de la Saint-Jean Saint-Jean-d’Angely, June 17-26 With events all through the week, the main day is Friday with a local producer market, displays of archery, organised walks and jazz concerts. www.angely.net
Festival Sites en Scène La Rochelle, June 24 – September 17 A celebration of music with concerts, many including special effects lighting or fireworks, performed throughout the summer in the region.
International Film Festival La Rochelle, July 1 to 10. New and classic films are screened and get the chance to meet a selection of writers and directors. This year's films include a a retrospective of Buester Keaton and 16 films made by David Lean. They are screened on the quai – not quite as glamorous as Cannes, perhaps, but cinema buffs need to be in this superb, historic port city for this excellent festival, now in its 39th year. www.festival-larochelle.org
Nuits Romanes Poitou-Charentes, July 2 – August 27 Throughout the summer, the Romanesque churches, abbeys and châteaux of the Poitou-Charentes become atmospheric venues for a series of cultural events including instrumental and choral concerts, dance, theatre and even circus acts.This year’s opening performance is at Saint-Hilaire church in Melle in the Deux-Sèvres. It begins at 9pm and stars the Orchestra Ars Nova along with pupils from the National Circus School at Châtellerault. For more information: http://nuitsromanes.poitou-charentes.fr
Francofolies La Rochelle, July 12-16 This popular music festival in the Charente-Maritime is known throughout France with a series of concerts, some of them free, in a number of venues throughout the town. www.francofolies.fr
Festival des Saintes Saintes, July 15 - 23 A series of classical concerts, both choral and orchestral, performed in the town’s beautiful churches including the Abbaye aux Dames and cathedral. This year see pieces composed by Mozart, Brahms, Beethoven and many more. www.abbayeauxdames.org
Festival International D’art Pyrotechnique St Palais-sur-Mer, July 13-20 Days of evening events including a beach party and street parade culminate with the grand event on the 20th – a spectacular competition between teams from India, America and Italy, after the title of best fireworks display. For more information...
Un Violon sur le Sable Royan, July 25, 27, 29 The name of the festival harks back to its origins when it was just one violin playing on the sands. Today you can enjoy a full orchestra (from Paris and other grand orchestras) playing under the stars on the beach which is transformed into a concert hall that holds up to 40,000 people. www.violonsurlesable.com
Festival Humour et Eau Salée St Georges-de-Didonne, August 5-7 As the name suggests, get ready to laugh during this festival with the vast majority - 90 percent or even 100 perecnt claim the organisers! - of the performers taking to the streets. www.humoureteausalee.net
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